By Kellene Bishop
How long can I store flour? What’s the shelf-life of freeze-dried strawberries? Can I preserve meat in some way other than smoking or drying it?
I’d have to say the most common question I get asked as the Preparedness Pro is asking me how long something will store of what the shelf-life is of a particular product. I feel kind of badly for these persons because I know that the answer I give them isn’t the response that they are expecting to receive. The truth is there isn’t a hard and fast answer to such a question because it’s not the product you’re storing that is the key factor in the shelf-life, rather it’s the conditions in which you’re storing it. Mind you, this is a controversial position; there are plenty of internet results that will provide you with hypothetical shelf-life statistics, but I’m repeatedly finding them to be far too conservative to what I’ve experienced first-hand. If you know how to protect your supplies from the Pantry Villains, then you can extend the life of everything, including medicines, successfully which will save you a LOT of money, time, and stress.
Before I get to the list of Pantry Villains though, I need to make a clarification. I do not advocate “food storage”. I do not purchase foods for the purpose of putting it away in a corner and forgetting about it. With the exception of the MREs that we have, I USE what I purchase and I only purchase that which I USE.
Pantry Villain #1:
Deception
First of all, please keep in mind that expiration dates or “use by” dates on your food means nothing relevant to how long it can hang out in your pantry before you get around to using it. There are no “expiration posting requirements” issued by the USDA. Such dates are created by the manufacturers (and their attorneys) for multiple reasons, none of which have to do with food poisoning or some other disaster prevention. All those dates really do for me is give me an idea of which items are the freshest when I’m purchasing them.
There’s also another deception in the form of the packaging or staging of the food. Just because the food is packaged a certain way doesn’t meant that that’s the best way for the longest shelf-life. It also doesn’t mean that it’s packaged to ensure the longest shelf-life. For example, I’m always asked if the “cheese wax” on the Tillamook cheese can replace the efforts of waxing ones own hard cheeses. The answer is no, it’s not cheese wax, it’s simply marketing. Besides, in the interest of being self-reliant, do you really want to rely on the manufacturers—whose utmost motive is to get you to buy more product—to properly package your food for optimal shelf-life? Uh, that would be a no, I hope.
Pantry Villian #2:
Oxygen
Once oils in foods are exposed to oxygen, and exchange commences which causes the oils to turn rancid and begin to smell foul. Consuming such rancid fats are actually the #1 cause of heart disease. Oxygen also compromises the texture and nutrients of your food products. A mistake that many people make when preserving their food is their trust in plastic. Plastic does not prevent an oxygen exchange. In fact, items such as whole grains, legumes, or seeds that still need to breathe so that they can remain “living” should be stored in plastic so that they aren’t deprived completely of oxygen.
This principle is one of the reasons why I personally don’t have a lot of flour in my supplies, because it loses so much of its nutrients so quickly. Instead I store the whole grains and a couple of great grinders to ensure that I have the maximum amount of nutrients.
Mylar bags are a good option to inhibit oxygen exchange. How thick should Mylar bags be for optimal shelf-life? If you’re going to bother with the bag, then go with the 5 mil thick ones. They will also help you with most of the other Pantry Villains.
Glass or metal does a great job of eliminating oxygen exchange. My weapon of choice is my FoodSaver for dry ingredients, canning, or #10 cans with oxygen absorbers. (Be sure you’re purchasing your oxygen absorbers from a reputable company to ensure that your OAs are still effective. You can also use the hand warmers as OAs. They are the exact same thing as an OA. One hand warmer would be sufficient for a 5 gallon container.)
Pantry Villain #3:
Heat
The smallest amount of heat can make all the difference in the world in terms of your shelf-life and more importantly, the nutrient value of your food. Before air conditioning, refrigerators, and ice, most homesteads utilized a root cellar to prolong the life of their foods. At five feet below ground, a root cellar will always maintain 50-55 º degrees Fahrenheit. (Root cellars do not protect against humidity though) I suggest that you keep your heat-sensitive supplies below 70º degrees Fahrenheit. This can be accomplished in a basement, cellar, or crawl space area. For those of you who do not have the luxury of such space, make use of space under the beds or back of the closets. You’ll find it to be cooler there than the rest of your home. In fact, a research project conducted in 2006 by the FDA at the direction of the Department of Defense concluded that even medicines enjoyed extended shelf-life an average of 66 months beyond the posted expiration dates simply by avoiding heat exposure of temperatures above 68 º degrees, as well as the other Pantry Villains.
Pantry Villain #4:
Light
The other day I was watching a new episode of Doomsday Preppers. My jaw dropped as I saw several 2 gallon jars filled with rice sitting on the window sill in their food storage room. Good grief! It may still cook up and look like white rice (though the gluten content will most certainly be affected), such light exposure is sure to impact the flavor which is predicated, in part, upon the nutrients in the food.
Exposure to both natural and artificial light causes photodegredation in your food and drinks, which is what happens when food absorbs the light, causing a chemical reaction in the inherent constituents in the food. This sets off a ripple effect in the food as one compromised constituent results in other constituents to follow suit. Photodegredation affects the color, nutrients, fat taste/texture, as well as protein taste/texture. Liquids are most sensitive to prolonged light exposure. The good news though is that packaging foods even in opaque containers offers a significant level of protection from light damage.
Pantry Villain #5:
Humidity
Ideal conditions for maximum shelf-life require your supplies to get stored at 25% humidity or less.
A reduction in humidity in your pantry can make a big difference in the effective temperature of your pantry, so if you are struggling between the challenge of heat vs. humidity, you’ll want to prioritize the lowering of the humidity levels.
You’ll notice that once you open a can of freeze-dried fruit or vegetables, moisture from the air will make the product a bit more sticky. Be sure that you continue to store it in a dry environment even after you’ve opened it and you should be able to still enjoy the taste, texture and nutrition of the product for the next 18 months as you continue to use it.
Adding a bit of white rice to your #10 cans after you’ve opened them will help to absorb the unwanted moisture. You may also want to use the rice in your spices as well in order to extend their quality taste. (Spices don’t really go bad, they just lose their potency over time)
Technically speaking, freezer-burned food aren’t bad, they are simply demonstrating a loss of moisture. Such foods are still perfectly safe to consume; the lack of moisture simply depletes quality in taste and texture. Again, there’s nothing wrong with freezer-burned food, it’s just not as beautiful in appearance and lacking in taste. BUT…the good news is that you can re-hydrate such foods with a pressure cooker, and have it turn out just fine.
Root vegetables actually NEED humidity and thrive in conditions of 50-75% humidity. You can extend their shelf-life if you bury them in wet sand AND store them vertically in that sand. You’ll have to “water” the sand from time to time as the water will dissipate. They will be perfectly happy in a root cellar, however, due to the inherent humidity conditions, dry items should not be stored in the root cellar.
Now, before you get concerned that your home is too hot, you don’t have a basement, or you’re making any other “food storage sin”, let me be the bearer of some good news. You CAN submit to any one of these Pantry Villains and still be able to rely on your food being edible BUT…the period of time in which you expose your food and drink to these Villains will have a direct impact on just how long you have before you need to use your supplies will be tasteless (or off-tasting), colorless, and nothing but empty calories. I’d like to believe that we’re all investing in hearty food supplies so that we THRIVE instead of just survive, so do all that you can to ensure you protect it all from these dastardly villains. *grin*
One final thought on the matter. If I sold you something that you knew would increase in value quickly by a minimum of 400%, you’d be very motivated to protect that purchase, right? Well, the fact is that the VALUE of food and drink today is escalating and by my most recent calculations, most of the food that I’ve invested in over the years has increased in value by at lest 400%! I can assure you there’s not one item I’ve allowed to LOSE value, because I rotate it. On top of that nice little benefit, it’s also essential. It can be the difference between life and death, health or disease. As such, my position is that if we’re going to invest in it, then we need to be willing to prioritize and apply our other resources to ensure that we don’t lose any of that value—and ensure that it’s there when we need it.
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I’ve got #1,2, and #4 covered. My problem is HEAT and HUMIDITY. I live in a subtropical climate below sea level (in a rural area just outside of New Orleans). Soooo, any kind of root cellar or even a crawl space is out of the question and we live with almost 100% humidity most of the year. During Hurricane Issac we were without electricity for a week and the humidity was so bad with the windows open that our ceramic tile floors were dangerous to walk on because they stayed very wet. I’ve been trying to research how food was stored in this area before electricity and so far all I’ve come up with is large clay jars with meats in brine in an above ground basement like the plantation homes here have. We do not have an above ground basement and those still are much warmer and more humid than basements in other parts of the country. Any suggestions for me??? I haven’t purchased any freeze dried foods yet. We are growing food and I am canning. My husband told me when he was a child here, they stored potatoes in hay in the barn which we are going to do. I want to be able to store whole grains (corn and wheat), dried milk to supplement goats milk (we’ll have goats this coming spring), and we are currently raising chickens for eggs and meat. What about storing eggs without refrigeration in high temps???
Thank you for any help you can give me.
Cindy, I have some of the same questions you do. Living in the south is hard when it comes to cool places to store food. I have a storm shelter that’s 6 feet deep and there is no stable 55 degrees in it. This summer, I kept track of the temperature in there and it got into the mid to upper 80′s. A definite problem in the lower states. Hope you can help us Killene and thanks for all the great tips you give. Very helpful for those of us who are just getting our feet wet!
I wanted to let you know that I live in the South and what we did was buy a storage building like you put in your backyard. We added a air conditioning unit to it (a window unit) and that way I can keep it cool in the summer months. I turned it off in October and will probably turn it back on in April or May. You can also get a dehumidifier and set it in the room and run that. I haven’t done that yet, but need to. You can put mineral oil on eggs to keep them for abt 6 months. ( I haven’t done it, but I heard it works.-We are going to get chickens, but have’t yet.) Once you get a storage building with electricity and cooling, your problem is solved until the SHTF. After that, I am not sure how we will keep any foods, just kill and eat it that day or grow and eat. Hugs.
Way to go, Cristina. I’m tickled pink to read how you’ve prioritized protecting your investment.
I’ve recently discovered that mineral oil is being made differently this past year and as such you might end up getting a fishy smell. As such, I’d recommend using waterglass (sodium silicate) on your eggs instead, but you MUST keep the eggs cool at that 60 degree range.
Oh No! I just this week used mineral oil for the first time on a box of 5 doxen eggs!! I did what you had said about using the mineral oil from the pharmacy department. Will I need to trach these eggs now??
No, just watch them closely and be sure to flip them once a month as well.
I hear you i’m in Houma and we had the same problem with the floors. But we have window units to use in case of power outages. I raise chickens and I can tell you that if your eggs are not dirty ( cover with mud or have poop on them ) then you can let them sit on the counter till your ready to use them. But if you wash them then you take the bloom off and will need to put in the box. They’ll still last a long time but they last longer if you dont wash. Just make sure you wash before ( the ones you keep on the counter ) using them.
The bloom actually disintegrates in about 10 days. Just FYI.
Ummm, rice doesn’t contain gluten. I’m celiac and I eat rice all the time. Might want to research #4 a little more. Other than that, great tips.
Actually, while technically void of gluten which would harm those who are allergic to it, it’s common for cooks to refer to the texture of the rice as more or less glutinous, which is typically determined by how it is cooked. For example, in the recipe I follow for my Red Rice Pudding, the instructions specifically state to cook the rice until it’s glutinous and sticks together. In fact, even the rice that is referred to as “glutinous rice” aka “sweet rice” is technically gluten-free but is more “sticky”, as if it were to possess glutinous properties, which is what makes it perfect for breakfast Champarado.
I appreciated the encouragement of storing grains. I lost 15lbs of flour I had bought on sale. When I opened it (stored in a five gallon bucket in a climate controlled room),…bug, and they were in two separate buckets. The seller was kind enough to replace them since they were not beyond their use by date. So I will not be buying that much extra again. I am now looking into grains and looking for a grinder. Thanks again for you timely info.
ps If you edit this, it wont ruffle my feathers.
Put a couple tablespoons of food-grade DE in each of the 5 gallon buckets and you’ll be just fine and dandy in the future.
I am so confused about grains and how to store them! There is alot of misinformation out there and I don’t know what’s right and what’s not. We recently purchased 100# of wheat berries. I split the bags into 25# increments, and stored them in mylar bags with an oxygen absorber. I put the mylar bags in 5 gallon buckets. Now I read here, that they need air? So how do you store them? Is there any reliable place that can explain to me just how to store grains and legumes?
I used the mylar bags because light penetrates the buckets. I thought that was not good so the mylar bags would help. Was that not necessary?
Sometimes I feel overwhelmed by all this. I just want to do the right thing.
Anything that you intend to sprout needs air, and I would most definitely look to my wheat berries to sprout as they are a great way to ensure that you get fresh vegetable nutrients in any weather/scenario. If you deprive them of oxygen, they don’t sprout anywhere nearly as well, BUT, don’t you worry. You can still use them for all of the other things you intended.
If you just stick with us for your info, you’ll always get someone who’s doing the research and practicing what she preaches.
I’m sorry about you feeling overwhelmed though because I know how that feels. Ugh. Breathe. Brush yourself off. And conquer. 
Thank you! I now understand why they need air. And I know it’s important but I have not learned about sprouting yet. I have to prioritize and that’s not at the top of the list right now.
How will we keep in touch after the EMP hits??
Kellene, I’m not clear why you state the grains won’t sprout if deprived of oxygen? I purchase wheat from PHG that is in mylar bags with oxygen remover pellets all within 5 gallon buckets. I store them for several months (rotate them as I use them for bread making). When planting time arrives in the fall I use whatever bucket is open to plant my wheat plot. I always have very successful germination rate. (ps, 800 sq ft plot provides about 80-100 loaves)
thanks for all you help with
The Mormon church also packages wheat with OAs in their #10 can. However, it’s just enough to please USDA requirements. I suspect your 5 gallon buckets are the same in which case it’s likely that it isn’t enough OA to prevent them from sprouting.
I was asked (yesterday) why I was buying canning jars this time of year. I replied that I was processing and canning meat – venison, beef roast, boston butts, bacon, chicken and seasoning meats. They had never heard of such a thing! I do cook my meats and then can with a onion soup base. The meat ‘juices’ remain in the meat and will not taste like sawdust. I started years ago when our family ‘vacationed’ in Sourthern Alaska for a month and fished daily. We took a small freezer and tons of canning jars and my pressure canner. Halibut and salmon are still yummy after 4-5 years! (I did not precook the fish)
I have not mastered crab, shrimp or hot dogs!!!
I am concerned about my storage if power is lost… no way to have a cellar, humidity is high here and the heat can be high 90′s to 100′s.
I use my food saver, have repackaged (using oxygen obsorbers) my boxed noodle dinners, etc. and all rice, sugar, flour, dry beans, dehydrated potato products, corn meal, powdered milk and the like… all safe from water and bugs. Mylar bags and 5 gallon buckes are also in use.
One side mention… this past year I used several kiddie pools with drain holes to use for garden plots. the onions didn’t work but squash and tomatoes are still producing! NO weeds!
When you are using your food saver to put flour in are you using the bags or glass cans?
I’m using jars, however, you need to either have the flour in a bag inside the jar or have a coffee filter or similiar type of protection on the top in order to prevent the fine contents from going into the port tube and clogging it. It’s the easiest way to bust your machine.
I find that full 5# bags of flour and cornmeal fit perfectly as is inside the 11″ FoodSaver rolls. I also have found that if I want to package smaller amounts, I can do that in the 8″ FoodSaver rolls by first placing the powdered goods inside a paper bag such as a liquor pint or quart bag that you can buy in bulk at any Sam’s club, and just folding it over one time and sliding it inside the FS bag and sealing. Traps all the powder and gives you something to write on other than the bag so you can re-use the bag ;0)
Great suggestions. Keep in mind though, everyone, that plastic still allows for oxygen exchange and check your FoodSaver bags periodically. Even FoodSaver themselves say that the seal is only expected to last for 6 months on their bags.
Do you have a source you like to get Mylar bag and/or oxygen absorbers from by chance?
Yes, you can get them from FiveStarPreparedness.com
I found the best price to buy smaller mylar bags nice and thick was from the lds web site. they don’t carry the 6 gallon ones though. I have gotten their oxygen absorbers there too.
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For those of you who are new to this food storage business, I grew up canning, freezing, pickling, baking, storing, you name it. I also grew up knowing the importance of rotating the provisions that we had. Everything that was, as my mom and grandma used to say, “put up,” was dated so we always knew to move the newest things to the back of the shelf behind the older things. And neither my mom or grandma had anyplace to put their provisions except in their garages. Knowing all of this, I still look to Kellene for the knowledge that she has to share. It is very encouraging to me to see her reconfirming all of the knowledge that was given to me by my mom and grandma when I was growing up. And that was knowledge given by women who just did it as their way of life. If you had called them preppers they would have looked at you like you were crazy.
No way are you getting off that easy, Sarah. Just because you’re a prepper doesn’t mean you’re NOT crazy. *snicker*
Do you prefer freeze dry over dehydrated foods? I have a dehydrator on loan but unsure which is best. Also, when using foodsaver for instant potatoes, cake mixes and such do u add oa inside the bag or just inside bucket? Why use Mylar bags over foodsaver bags? So many questions so little time?
Btw Kellene, you have become my BFF! Lol
Yes, I do, Sharon, for nutrition purposes and based on the water needed to rehydrate them–dehydrated requires more. I’d still use a dehydrator for your own produce, mind you, but you do get a lesser nutrients. When you are using the FoodSaver for things like cake mix, I put the entire bag of cake mix in the jar and then seal it. Sometimes I will do a pin puncture in the packaging and then put it in the jar and seal it on items but I’m discovering that the pin prick really isn’t necessary. FoodSaver bags are plastic, thus they are not oxygen proof. Sincerely, your BFF.
Hello ya’ll, sleep and vodka are beging to over whelm me, however, mrs kellene is amazing! She should start a dating site. I have at least 90 lbs of flour in 5 gal buckets with o2 packets, with o-ring seals. I figured better than grinding it later, we will see some day. I’m single(hate it), but do really like my food saver. I can have veriety of meats and cheeses for 4 times longer than normal. I can many meats in presser cooker and hope i dont need them. Just starting to build rabbit cages and gaining raising rabbit smarts . Good night, Bran
Bran, did you know that someone HAS started a singe preppers dating site? And in fact, there’s a show casting for single preppers right now LOL! *wink*
The OA in the flour is likely to mess with your baking results, just FYI.
When I started searching for sensible info, 5 or 6 years ago I could only research the topic for a little while before feeling hopelessly defeated and overwhelmed. Such a horrible feeling! I don’t remember how I “found” Kellene but (at first) her suggestions sounded “to simple” to really work compared to most other sites
Also, we are seniors with some health challenges and our family treated us like we were “getting senile”, (smiling here) but since simple was doable I kept coming back to Kellene. One big deal for me was she teaches preparing not “survival”. I am truly amazed with how far we’ve come with her help and minus the stress! So if you are new to this topic of being prepared and learning the how-to’s, read all of Kellene’s posts.. even if only a few minutes a day because she is the one who will take you by the hand and walk you though your fears to confidence and that is empowering.
Kellene, I always put my flour in a plastic grocery bag then into the freezer for 24 hours or so, to insure there are no bugs then into the 5 gal food grade bucket with the “O” ring. Do I still need to use the DE and if I did that do I still need to freeze it?
As always thank you sooo much!
AutumnGal
You know why you get simple from me, right AutumnGal? Cause I’m the laziest preparedness person you will ever meet. hee hee
Thank you for your very kind words and you’ve made my day!
ALL flour and grains have weevils in them. Period. Sorry, folks, but it’s true. When they get to the point that you can see them, it just means they got bigger than they were when you brought the food home. Freezing doesn’t kill them, but it does make them dormant for a longer period of time. Whole grain preservation will be best suited by food-grade diatomaceous earth AND give you great nutrition too. As for flour–I think you’re doing the best you can there with that substance. You can’t put the DE in with it, it’s too fine, it won’t permeate, plus it might mess up your baking efforts. I have very little flour on hand other than in #10 cans. Otherwise, I rotate through it quickly, about once every year. So you CAN still have a year’s supply of flour on hand. Just know that it will be more suseptible to the weevils and it will be void of the same nutrients than if you were to grind it. But being “younger longer” than most, I’d be focusing on how to conserve physical energy. Flour, instead of grinding your grains by hand for every meal, is a good option that way.
I have a suggestion that might help those of you with humidity problems. I live in Oklahoma which is right next to Louisiana…nothing like the humidity there I’m sure, but we deal with a lot of it! Dealing with animal feed involves many of the same problems that Kellene has outlined. Moisture destroys my feed! So…I use old chest type freezers to store the feed in. The feed NEVER has moisture, there is no sunlight, and even in 100+ degree weather it stays cool in a very hot barn. I realize that having a bunch of old chest type freezers around is not aesthetically pleasing, but it might solve some of your problems. I’m actually thinking of getting another to move into my cellar simply for the same reason. Getting down through the opening will be my biggest challenge! Just an idea! Hope it helps someone!
I love the idea of using old freezers! We receive around 60 inches of cold rain between October and April on the west coast and open feed sacks would store more efficiently in an old chest freezer – instead of garbage cans – to keep out moisture and vermin, plus we could put people food in the bottom layer.
Debbie, I think it’s a great idea for SOME foods like you’ve described here, but certainly has it’s cons if it’s for all 350 pounds of grains per person, per year.
On that theory, what about ice chests/coolers? Of course it would take several but mobility would be easier
Mobility would actually be more difficult, even with wheels, and it will take up significantly more storage space.
thanks for your response! I still am trying to figure out how to store wheat properly, without oxygen packs. If I purchase the wheat in the cans will that be okay for long term storage. I was going to purchase a 50 pound bag of wheat, and break it down in 10 pound bags. What is the best way to store this to assure it doesn’t get infested. I have a great food storage area….low temp…no light unless I turn it one, no humidity at all, very clean. I still worry about infestation in the wheat.
thanks again for all your help!
diane
If the wheat’s in cans, it should already be sufficiently treated for that type of storage. I’d purchase it from the LDS Church for best pricing. I store my grains in 4 gallon square buckets with food-grade diatomaceous earth. As I shared earlier, if you do a search on wheat on this site and diatomaceous earth, you will get more answers to your questions that are already written out as opposed to me responding on the fly here. HTH
The ice coolers are cheaper than several 5gallon buckets and some have wheels! Beginning to think this may be good idea….anyone have cons to this? Always open for suggestions sine I am just coming aboard prepping. Also, would you use OAS with them?
Where in the heck are you buying your buckets, Girl? I looked at a couple of cheap-o sites for prices on coolers and I’m not seeing the benefit here given a comparison of space per dollar. Your 5 gal. buckets with good lids should only be running you $4-$5 each at the most. Other reasons why I wouldn’t deploy this idea. 2) your food needs to be easily mobile so that you can modify it’s location if you have to bug out or you have to protect it from sudden changes in its environment (i.e. flooding, earthquake, etc.) The more you pack a large items, the less you’re able to move it. I no longer pack 5 gallon buckets with heavy items such as wheat and rice because they are so dang heavy. I go with smaller buckets so that I can actually use my pantry goods. 3) The bigger the containers you put it in, the more effort you’ll have to go to to keep the entire space free from bugs/oxygen/etc. You could lose all of it in one fail swoop whereas if you protect smaller increments you have better chances of parts of it surviving. 4) Coolers don’t seal like buckets with gasketed lids would or glass jars or #10 cans. 5) It’s bulkier which means you’ll have wasted space. I’m such a space hound that I resorted to primarily 4 gallon square buckets. No wasted space inside or out.
I had place my mylar bags in cheap paint buckets from Home Depot. They run about $2 There not food grade but I’m not placing the food into the buckets. I’m placeing them in a mylar bag with OA. Then you can also place the DE in the bags before sealing and in the buckets.
DE and OA is overkill.
Thank you Kellene!
I’m another person who doesn’t always have the optimal storage temperature for a variety of reasons. I’ve found that I can keep the temperature at 72 to 75 in the hot summer but can’t get it to the 60′s which would be the best. I would love to have a root cellar or basement but it’s just not possible. I have found that the food in dark closets is a lot cooler than the rest of the house. I also use the under bed areas because the floor is cool.
I would like to use the small crawl space under the house for storage but the food would have to be well protected from insects and moisture.
Does anyone have any suggestions?
Carrie, as I shared in the article, the good news is that you CAN have foods at these temps. You’ll just get a shorter shelf-life. The more you can control the environment of your pantry, the longer your foods will last. I’d use your crawlspace for non-perishable items giving the inside of your home more space. 72-75 is far better than most I hear from in the south/desert areas.
Thank you so much!
Any ideas on what can be put in the attic space which is super hot in the summer and below freezing in the middle of winter?
Would paper products be safe there or would they degrade in the heat? How about dry soaps like laundry powder and bar soaps?
This is Michigan weather which in the summer rivals the far south and in the winter can look like Canada!
Use your attic space for well-packaged non-perishables. Paper products would likely end up being a nest for a critter. But I would totally put soaps, dishwashing soap, bottled water (so long as it’s not too, too hot so that the bottles don’t burst), etc.
I live in Houma Louisiana And I know quite a few people who store and me including paper items in the attic. My friends have had toilet paper and other items up there since 1999. They were ready for Y2K. I started doing it last year and all is well. when I buy more I just rotate. I’m a big believer in rotation. Hope this helps.Oh and I’ve check out my freinds toilet papper ( when you visit you gotta go sooner are later ) and they were fine. Just like the day he bought them.
Carrie, I too live in Michigan! I can totally relate to your issue. We have a well house outside that we are considering for storage. I am near the lakeshore. Are you anywhere close? If you dont mind.
Kellene, I’m wondering if we microwaved a certain portion of flour at a time before we put it up for long-term storage, if that would kill the bugs in it?
A couple problems that I perceive with it…you are likely to end up “toasting” the flour at the most and at the least you’ll compromise the glutinous effect of flour for baking, etc.
I would think twice about putting liquid laundry soap, or dish washing liquid in the attic. I put some in the a storm shelter I had and it busted at the seams and the liquid ran out.
If your space gets over 80 -85 degrees regularly, then yes, storing anything but well-protected clothes and like items is a bad idea.
Kellene, I have a couple of questions. Can you dry pack brown sugar, dried ocean spray cranberries and nuts in the mason jars using a food saver? Some one stated that you could get botulism in these items if you do this..Please let me know if you think this is unsafe due to higher moisture content. Thank you..
I’ve dried pack ALL of these items. I think the Botulism Fairy must be spreading that rubbish around. Botulism comes from the soil. So just be sure not to add any dirt into your preservation efforts.
Love,love,love the dirt comment! I have had a rough week and this made me chuckle out loud. It is refreshing to see a bit of humor when we are talking about preparedness. Some people only think about the doom and gloom when preparing, we need to remember that we are all trying to keep living too. I know that I will be much happier in a world with humor, even if “bad things” are around. Thanks Kellene for all that you do!
I’ve always believed that humor is a special kind of prozac.
Since I’m always learning something new from Kellene – this article brought up a question. I was going to put jubilee brown rice in 1/2 gallon jars and foodsaver it. But now I see that it should be in something that breathes. So would welcome suggestions on what I should put my brown rice in instead? Thanks for all your great suggestions and knowledge…
Brown rice goes bad quickly. Unless you’re going to be sprouting it soon, you’ll want to store it in the jar.
We live in the deep south (LA) and are almost done with our house about 300 miles north of here. In planning the house we had the attic over the garage spray foam insulated. I’m very anxious to see what kind of temps we’ll get in there during the hot summer months. Our builder brought us into attics with the spray foam this summer and it was so much cooler than the house. My hope is that I can store the non perishable items there.
Sounds like that was money well spent! Congrats on your new home!
Hi Kellene!
Does Turkey get canned (jarred) like chicken does? I have a whole extra Turkey in the fridge for a few days and I want to cut it up and raw pack it like I do chicken. Is this the right way? Thanks!
yes, turkey is fine to can, either raw or bottled. I’ve found it to be a lot of hassle trying to do a whole turkey raw…it’s easier when it’s cooked to get all of the meat. Then I also pressure cook the bones, gizzards, etc with vegetables for an amazing turkey brother and then pressure can that. Yum!
Thank you, Kellene! If I jar it cooked instead of raw, how long do I pressure cook it? I only know 90 minutes for a quart of raw meat.
The 90 minutes refers to the size of the jars, not the type of product being canned. I’d refer to your instruction manual for cooked meats.
Thank you for helping me! Always appreciated.
I’m new to the concept of storing food and I’m a bit confused about the #10 cans. For instance, I’m looking at the specs on a can of Backpacker’s Pantry #10 can of Granola with freeze-dried bananas and milk. The can has (32) 1/2 cup servings and a shelf life of only 7 days if the can is opened. I don’t think a 1/2 cup of granola is going to fill up an adult and $1.13 for this small serving seems very expensive. What am I not understanding about these #10 meals?
You’ll need to be much more particular in what types of product you purchase in #10 cans. I never purchase entrees, only individual items in order to leverage my dollars the most. You are getting the benefit of a shelf-life and that can be taken into account of the value of the product, but you can do much better. I think you’ll find that the products that Five Star Preparedness carries to be competitive. In fact, if you take into account the shelf-life as well, they are very competitive. I’ve found that if I’m careful about what I purchase then I’m actually paying less for produce than I would in the store per serving AND getting a much longer shelf-life to boot and a better quality because it has to be picked at its prime in order to freeze-dry. Additionally, any brand that’s worth any money should be able to maintain it’s texture, taste, and nutrient value for 18 months after the can is opened. Look up other articles I’ve written on here regarding freeze-dried foods via our search bar.
Sounds good, thank you for the info!
Won’t weavils die in flour stored in airtight containers with OA?
Not necessarily. They may just hibernate according to some studies, but the real problem is that you’re compromising the gluten action in the flour that’s necessary for rising in cakes, breads, etc. when you use OAs. That’s why you don’t see OAs in Bisquick mixes or cake mixes.
Hello! I love all this info, that being said admitting I’m overwhelmed is an understatement! Is there an “idiots guide to prepping” or a beginers step by step? My fiance and I have two young kids and really want to be more prepared. Just reading through the comments I find myself googling a lot of the terminology! Any help would be fantastic!
P.S. Kellene your episode NATGO is what really got me thinking, Thanks!
Renee, use the search bar here and find the article entitled “Prepping for Beginners.” I believe that will set you on the right path and it’s geared to take the “over” out of overwhelming.
I am starting to can things and I would like to know where you guys buy your cans and lids for the best prices?
Thank you!
-Danielle
I bought some of those square buckets to have on hand and when I got around to needing them I opened the box to find out that over half of them had big cracks in the bottoms. I was so disappointed at the waste of money I never would buy them again.
Sounds like a customer service issue or a shipping issue–not a flaw in the merits of using square buckets over larger round ones. I’ve never had a problem like that with mine. And I have purchased well over 100 of them.
I know this isn’t a “food storage” question in the traditional sense, but anyone have any idea as to the best storage options for dry pet food? I have some mylar bags and OA, but will this work? And if so, for how long? I just want to make sure I have enough food for my little ones should SHTF. Thanks!
And thanks for the great info Kellene!
I’m making my own dry pet food, so I simply focus on what I need to make the pet food. After learning what’s in ALL pet food, there was no way I was going to poison my furry kids that way any longer.
Well I’m screwed. I live in SE Texas! Ha! Just kidding, Kellene. Thanks for the info. You are always right on the mark. Really appreciate you.
I found a really good deal with my coupons on white rice. Since it has a long shelf life I stocked up. I took them out of the bags though and stored them in clean, recycled 2 liter bottles with the lid tightly on and stored under the bed where it will be cooler. Will this help with bugs and the like? Or what is your recommendation? I haven’t purchased a Food Saver yet. I will be using it and restocking so it will not sit for years. But buying 50 lbs of rice is a major haul for me! I’d hate to lose it after 6 months.
It will help with the bugs getting IN, yes, but understand that there are likely already weevils in your grains. So I always add a little bit of food grade diatomaceous earth to ensure that the critters don’t thrive in any way. Keep in mind that plastic still allows the oxygen to get through, so I wouldn’t use that method for brown rice or oats which are more volatile. But otherwise, using it for white rice, whole grains and legumes should be just fine and dandy.
Congrats on taking the initiative to get the rice! Now, start using it and cycle through what you’ve got. *wink*
Thanks for the answer! I’m doing the same with beans. I just try to keep a stock of these on a “just in case” basis which with the way prices keep soaring looks like a very soon reality. We go through these things pretty quickly, and I do extreme couponing on a regular basis. I’ve now got a year’s worth of liquid laundry detergent and personal care. How long of a period of time do you recommend stocking on that? I got a deal on sodas in the 2 liter and have numerous bottles clean and ready. What do you recommend going in them (aside from my white rice and beans?) Just curious for an opinion- cause I’m all about using some things I have on hand.
This may sound like a silly question but is there a difference in storing something with an OA and dry canning with the food saver? Flour is what I was concerned about. Also, how do you store your sugar, other than the #10 cans. I have been getting 5# bags of it and intended in putting each bag in a mylar bag with an OA but read somewhere not to use and OA with sugar??? HELP
Yes, dry canning will be MUCH more reliable and you will be able to repeat it over and over again every time you open the jar. Also, I would NEVER use an OA on anything that I need to be active or rise such as flour, yeast, baking soda, baking powder, and cake mixes, etc.
Sugar is a forever food. I only store it in plastic 4 gallon square buckets. Cocoa is the same. So frankly, I don’t think you need to mess with that. However, brown sugar seems to enjoy the dry jar environment and doesn’t go hard.
Thank you so much Kellene…you have been a life saver for us all…that should make you sleep so much better at night! LOL
First off Kellene, Life would be so much harder without you.. I really do appreciate everything you are teaching us.. I’m more of a visual person so just reading and not seeing is hard for me. I’m so confused right now.. I saw your video on the food saver and the attachments.. got on amazon and bought it all right then and there.. Now I have my list of things I want to put in the jars and after reading all the comments above, I think I’m confused, I’m sorry to have to ask this question as I see it’s been posted enough times already, but I need your help to understand better. Can I dry pack flour and cake mixes and sugar and yeast and cornstarch and baking powder and baking soda for long term and if so how long. also can we also dry pack advil and asprins and neosporin and cortizones for a longer shelf life? my foodsaver will be here in another week and I want to be ready to start dry packing as much as possible… I just started prepping and everyday I get on facebook and read all the stuff being posted, I’m getting scared I might not get what I need done in time to keep my family going.. please Kellene again my apolizies for asking this question again.. thanks and God Bless you
You can dry pack ANYTHING that doesn’t require refrigeration however, when it’s fine like powder you CAN’T dry pack it normally as it will get sucked up your tubing. You’ll need to put a coffee filter at the top of the jar or put the items first into baggies and then put them into the jar.
By the way, action is the best remedy for getting scared and I’m quite sure that your Heavenly Father never intended you to be scared, so instead, sue for the peace that’s promised as you do all that you are able to now.
I just learned that the small mylar bags that numerous suppliers of crackers and such are using are easy to reseal. Today’s purchase of nut crackers from the local health food store went into a glass jar, but that cute little bags looked too good to not reuse for something not so precious. What remains to be discovered but the Food Saver vacuumed and sealed it just fine!
I am considering building a root cellar. We live in northwestern Wisconsin, small town rural area and have a 40 acre hobby farm north of town. Do you have knowledge, experience, and opinions about the suitability of food storage in a root cellar. From my reading I feel that store bought and home canned goods would keep well and would be kept from freezing. I am unsure how much humidity in that environment might cause storage problems. Uncanned dry goods would certainly not store well in my opinion.
Root vegetables store VERY well in a root cellar–erego the name. There’s a really inexpensive little book on Amazon http://www.amazon.com/Build-Your-underground-Root-Cellar/dp/0882662902/ref=sr_1_3?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1365273438&sr=1-3&keywords=root+cellaring that’s less than $3. There are also two others that I love on there as well. I think a root cellar is a MUST regardless of the humidity level. Some of that is mitigated with the depth of the root cellar. Anyway, that great little book will take care of all of your questions including many you haven’t though of yet. *grin*